Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Lazio, Italy

Day Sixteen: We wrap up our journey with a visit to Villa d’Este a 16th century villa commissioned by Cardinal Ippolito II d'Este (1509–1572), second son of Alfonso I d'Este, the Duke of Ferrara and grandson of Pope Alexander VI through his mother Lucrezia Borgia. Beyond this basic info, the entire Renaissance church/state thing confuses me except to say they are all in cahoots and loads of money and other riches are controlled by both and neither seem too concerned about the people they govern or shepherd. Cardinal d’Este appears to be particularly bereft of piety with an ego as big as the villa he built. The vast construction site required the demolition of houses, public buildings and roads. In 1568 the local residents filed twelve different lawsuits against the Cardinal, but he was not deterred. The interior space is impressive and the gardens are an engineering delight with waterfalls snd fountains. Cardinal d’Este pillaged some material from villa Adriana (see yesterday’s post). After the first World War, the villa was acquired by the Italian state and restored by the fascist government and visited by world leaders of the time. Big photo post if interested. I could not choose just a few. Headed home tomorrow so we have lots of organizing to do. Looking forward to seeing our family and getting back to our usual routine.

Villa Adriana, Tivoli, Lazio, Italy

Day Fifteen:Visit to Villa Adriana, built in AD 120. This blows my mind. Over 2,000 years ago, this architectural marvel was created using concrete, travertine,bricks and other “modern” materials as a retreat for Roman Emperor Hadrian. The architecture is complex, there is a theatre, dormitories for visiting dignitaries, baths, great rooms, latrines and dining areas and various fountains and pools all supplied by an aqueduct. As a mason, Caesar has the knowledge to explain how they constructed the walls and columns and it was interesting to watch him feel the bricks and stone and imagine how they created particular floors and walls. I was fascinated with the large baths and how pleasant that experience may have been under the Roman sun peeking from the dome above. Truth is, we’d be more likely to have been one of the 2,000 slaves who kept the place going than one of the dignitaries, priests or high ranking politicians visiting the place. Over time much of the marble and artwork was pillaged for other buildings but some floors remain intact and the black and white floors of the dormitory remind me of my current bathroom floor. Amazing. Spent the evening walking around Tivoli talking about this marvelous site.

Reflection from Italy on USA Independence Day

We are Americans. Me, simply by birth and Caesar by choice since age 25. These last few weeks we’ve enjoyed both the natural and engineered beauty of Italy. We traveled as Italians, on their roads, their public transit and ate in their restaurants and slept in their homes. Many things are different but the one uniting force and I think it may be for all people is their desire for liberty. Liberty to pursue one’s dreams and ambitions without the shackles of an oppressive government, within a society that allows the individual autonomy over their body, their thoughts, their pursuit of a lifestyle. There are towns of a few hundred people where hundreds of young men died fighting for this. The monuments list the names of the dead from the great wars and often there are several brothers listed. An entire generation gone in the pursuit of liberty. I am of the opinion that the United States of America was the inspiration to these people. They saw what George Washington’s Great Experiment produced and wanted it for their own. Some, unwilling to wait, like my own grandparents, left Italy for the unlimited opportunity they saw in America. If you judge their decision by their ancestors, they were successful. So, with these thoughts on the 4th of July, from the distance of a continent, I encourage all of us Americans, whatever your political persuasions, to judge every word, every action of our government and its representatives, by asking the question, “does it preserve liberty for all”? Does it, in the words of our first president “promote human happiness”. Enjoy a hot dog for me, I always miss them the most when traveling.

Crossing the Apennine

Day Fourteen: Travel to Lazio for the last few days of our adventure. We said goodbye with breakfast by the beautiful beach of Francavilla with Caesar’s aunt. Sunshine and a cool breeze and the sea! Never long enough in this part of Italy but we packed up and headed west. Stopped at the town of Celano in L’Aquila for pranzo and passagiata. Another town that was invaded by various forces throughout the centuries as well as an earthquake whose damage was never completed until after WWII. The rain was heavy during our visit but we were able to walk the historical trail and enjoyed pranzo at a restaurant called “la Locanda” a fitting spot since Caesar and I met at la Locanda (the one in Newtown Sqaure) 20 years ago. Made it to Tivoli by evening just as the sun returned.

Rainy Day Picnic in Abruzzo

Day Thirteen: Our intention was to have a relaxing beach day but we awoke to an overcast sky with rain predicted. Caesar wanted to visit a piece of family land so we drove into the hills and spoke to his neighbor who was growing the most remarkable tomatoes. He kindly gave us a bucketful when we left. We decided to revisit Guardiagrele where we visited a bottega and bought spices and dried herbs to bring home as well as some local salami and other dried meats and local cheeses. Instead of having Pranzo at a restaurant, we enjoyed a picnic on a park bench where we shared a roast porchetta panini, chips and a beer. Caesar dozed off on the bench until a thunderstorm interrupted his slumber. It is so cool to watch the weather from the high hills in Chieti because you can see the weather forming and moving and feel the changes in the wind and temperature. After the rain stopped we drove to Torrevecchia Teatina and admired the homes, the views and the Montepulciano vineyards. We talked to a few locals, visited the cemetery and enjoyed the sun and cool breezes after the rain. Check out the photo of the cactus I ran into. That hurt. We stopped at a supermarket on the way home to get some of our favorite things to bring home. The Italian supermarket has four ( no exaggeration) aisles of pasta, not including the fresh pasta in the refrigerated area. We are leaving Abruzzo in the morning so we spent the evening packing up and enjoying the tomatoes that the farmer gave us along with the delicious bread made by Danilo Toscani Del Nibletto and some local fruit, cheese and meat. Sad to leave Abruzzo but looking forward to the last leg of our journey-Lazio.

Celebrità d'Abruzzo

Day Twelve: No history lesson. Today I was a celebrity. The hair. I have a lot of it and it is beginning to look pretty bad after all this travel. Caesar arranged that I meet stilista extraordinaire Alessandra Martella and have a salon morning. His nephew Fabio Pennoni joined us and I never had so much fun waiting for my hair to process, listening to all theee of them and trying to follow the conversation. When we finished up around eleven, we all had coffee and dolce and then went on a scavenger hunt through the market for a particular kind of baby bib for our grandchildren that the moms at home love, laughing all the way, particularly at my inability to remember the word for bib. Bavaglino. Nearly time to meet my kind and thoughtful cousin, Danilo Toscani Del Nibletto for pranzo at one of my favorite local places located high in the hills. Fabio offered to drive us and Alessandra agreed to join us too and Caesar decided to take credit for arranging for me to have a stylist and driver for the day. If I had known that I would spend the day posing as an Americani celebre, I would have dressed way better. So great to see Danilo and we hope he will visit us in the USA next year. After all that, Caesar and I ran off to meet his brother in law, Ciofani Ottica so that Caesar could have his eye exam and choose new glasses, a thing he insists is inferior at home. Finally, ended the day having cena at 9PM with family and friends who we’ve traveled with and hosted in the past. So great to see all the people we love and share so many fun memories. So, not a day of sightseeing or culture but a day of living the dolce vita with the Italians.

Make New Friends

Day Eleven: Make New Friends. In Amazing Abruzzo , you can be from the seaside to the mountains in half hour. So, you can hike in the Appenine in the morning and swim in the Adriatic Sea in the afternoon. Or you can just make Sunday the day of rest that it was meant to be. Caesar has been following a British couple on Insta and FB who are doing a reconstruction on a property in Abruzzo (Brambletye) and he was adamant that we should meet them during this trip. Okay, Caesar, that’s not weird. Nonetheless, we traveled to Guardiagrele, which also happens to be the DeLuca hometown, to meet them for coffee in the morning. We didn’t get home until nearly 9PM. There was a marching band that didn’t march, church bells that never stopped, a MotoGuzzi rally that was attended by a Cardinal and a long afternoon of sharing stories, good food and wine with Lynn, Steve, Katja and Andrew and a sweet dog called Button.

The Tremiti Islands

Day Ten: Excursion to the Tremiti Islands.

We drove to the Molise region, about an hour away to Termoli where we traveled by ferry for an hour to Isole Tremiti. Wow! This archipelago of five islands has been inhabited since the Iron Age (4th century BC) and was through various periods of history used as a place of confinement. During the Fascist regime, homosexual men were rounded up and confined here. So, the beauty of the place is tempered by the loneliness and hardship endured by those who visited here in other circumstances. We rented a Zodiac boat and Caesar piloted us around all the islands, where we could see fish in the crystal clear water at a depth of dozens of feet. We had rough sea in a few places and it was as scary as it was beautiful. Enjoyed lunch on the island of San Nicola and a cool dip in the water afterward. That’s the story we’ll tell you in person. We ended the day at the dock in Termoli where we watched Italy lose in the Euro Cup. Think Eagles losing in the playoffs. Sad sight indeed. 

Beach Day in Abruzzo

Day Nine. Beach day in Francavilla. Night stroll through Pescara. The province of Pescara was carved out of Teramo and Chieti by the fascist regime in the early part of the 20th century. The town, specifically, the port and railroad, was heavily bombed during WWII so there are very few old buildings, most built after the war. Caesar’s parents were around 10-12 years old during this time and their farm was raided for food/wine by the Germans during their retreat from Allied forces. Around sunset, we drove into the hills around that area to watch the sunset over the Gran Sasso, part of the Appenine mountain range. We were also up there to get the best of the local dishes, arrosticini. It is so simple but so amazingly delicious. It is lamb, specifically mutton, on a stick and grilled and salted. This is not something I would expect to like and I was reluctant the first time I tried it. This is the simple food we miss so much at home.

Arrivederci Giovinazzo. Benvenuti Francavilla al Mare.

Day Eight: Travel to Abruzzo. Arrivederci Giovinazzo. Said good bye to this gem by having early morning coffee overlooking the sea as the locals set up their beach day on the rocks below. Headed to home for Caesar, a couple hour ride north along the sea. Bella Italia! First stop was a visit to his beautiful Aunt and and cousin (visiting from USA also) in Francavilla and then late night “cena”with Caesar’s amazing niece and her partner in the city of Ortona, an important defensive port for Allied supply route during WWII. The Air BB here is a newly restored apartment with a big terrazzo and lots of room. Feels good to spread out and extra nice to have a washing machine since we are pretty much out of clothes now. We have an extra bedroom and bath here too, so if you’re so inclined, come join us!

Bari, Puglia, Italy

Day Seven. Bari. The capital of the Puglia region. Between driving on Italian roads and visiting churches where I lit candles and listened to hymns and attended the wedding of a stranger, I prayed a lot today. An attractive port city on the southern Adriatic Coast with about 350,000 residents. We visited here to see the various architectural styles starting with Roman ruins, Medieval churches and amazing Baroque buildings . Modernity arrived in the early 20th century with Art Noveau and stark Fascist architecture. The streets of the old town are jammed with residents and tourists and in the doorways sit women making pasta, the local orecchiette, to sell to the passerbys. The newer Corso Cavour is full of beautiful upscale shops and restaurants. Basilica di San Nicola (Basilica of Saint Nicholas) is one of the most significant local landmarks. Dedicated to the patron saint of the city, it is an 11th-century Romanesque-style church where the remains of Saint Nicholas lie. I wore the wrong clothes today and the shirt I thought was cute in the morning felt thick as a sweatshirt in the beating sun. We had a long walk back to the car and I had a choice to make, buy a 35 euro lightweight top or get a cab back to the car. We chose the seven dollar taxi. Tonight we are packing to be ready in the morning for our next leg of the journey. Tomorrow we are going to “Italy” as Caesar keeps saying, returning to his hometown in Abruzzo about two hours north of here.

Day of Rest

Day Five. Our day of rest. Giovinazzo, Puglia.

Leisurely stroll around town, a couple hours in the sun. Dinner. Soccer game. Planning our next outing.

Market Day in Trani

Day Six. Market Day in Trani. Today we headed to the market in Trani where we found fresh fruit and a roasted chicken and then to the local paneficio where we bought the iconic Pugliese bread, Foccacia Barese and a small bit of pastry. The town was hyped for Euro Cup 2024. This overcast day was perfect for enjoying pranzo at home. Bread in Puglia is like no other and one of the things I think about when I’m long gone from this place. After we finally found a place to dispose of our trash (italy’s trash woes are impossible for me to understand) we spent the evening in Trani enjoying one another’s company.

Traveling to the Salento

Day Four: Travel Day.

Leaving Naples and headed to Puglia, specifically a small sea town called Giovinazzo. Itinerary is fluid here and the intention is to spend at least one day doing nothing. We are staying in an unusual place, the old Ducale Palazzo, that was built upon a Roman building. The apartment we are in was constructed during Roman times and rehabilitated to a wonderful modern space overlooking the sea. I wonder what weird dreams we will have here.

The Royal Palace of Caserta

Day Three. Visit to the Royal Palace of Caserta.

I’ll leave a link at the bottom for history buffs but the basics are that it is larger than Versailles and was home to Maria Carolina, the sister of Marie Antoinette. Ground was broken in mid 1700s but it was not complete until nearly a hundred years later, the original king, long gone and Italy about ready to give up the king altogether.

Anyway, I came away with two thoughts especially after the Naples visit yesterday. The church and the kingdom siphoned a lot of resources while the people did without and this excess allowed for the growth of an artisan community that eventually benefited Americans when people with these skills immigrated to the US and constructed the buildings and bridges of modern America. Anyway, that was a big thought for a person who walked 30,000 steps in a heatwave.

Royal Palace History

Naples & Caserta Vecchio

Day One. Arrival into Naples.

Evening walk through Caserta Vecchia. Keeping ourselves awake until midnight to get acclimated to the time change.

Day Two: Naples

Walked 25,000 steps in 93 degree weather. Hold none of these comments against me.

First day waking up in Italia. Forgot how hard it is to move fast around here and started the day with a fall in the bathroom as a result of my speed. Reminder to slow down. I did. Naples Day. If you’re Italian, one of your first memories might be someone in the family telling someone else to “va fa Napoli” which literally means, “go to Naples” but is idiomatic for “go to hell”. Naples is not hell but it’s not heaven either, and this was intricately explained to me at a park that overlooked the Bay of Naples in half Italian and half English by a man who could have been Jesus Christ but probably just needed a behavioral health referral. So, a lot happened, including Caesar rescuing me from some truffatore (grifters) outside the train station, avoiding, according to him, a lifetime of slavery. He was very disappointed that my Darby girl senses were compromised. Did I mention that I cracked my head on the marble wall during my bathroom fall? Enjoy the photos. Don’t ask us about pizza in Naples.

Palm Sunday

Palm Sunday. When Jesus rides into Jerusalem, victorious and welcome by the people there. So why, by the end of the week, were people asking for him to be crucified? Well, it wasn't the regular people, for they had been meeting him all week and listening to him at the Temple and most of them had no idea that he was arrested and brought to Pilate. The religious leaders who had been against Jesus all along were the shouting the loudest and asking for his crucifixion. Jesus was a victim of politics. This brings me to a thought for us modern people, because human nature is not much different since Jesus' time and there will always be people whose desire for power will allow them to rationalize just about anything.